| Traditional knitting
instructions for flat needle knitting include turning your work,
alternating front and wrong side rows. When working on looms, you are always
facing the front side of your knitting as you work, never turning to the
wrong side.
In needle knitting, to make flat
stockingnette fabric, the instructions are to knit one row, purl one row,
and repeat. In loom knitting, you simply knit each and every
row. To knit garter stitch flat on needles, you knit each and every
row. Garter stitch on a loom is made by alternating one row of knit,
one row of purl, and repeat. This works because structurally, a knit
stitch also appears as purl on the opposite side, and vice
versa.
Written flat needle knitting
patterns can be converted to flat loom knitting patterns. You'll read
the front side rows as is, working the pegs from right to left, then for
the wrong side rows, as you work the pegs from left to right, you will
need to change the knits to purls and purls to knits. Changing the
same flat pattern to a tube on a loom is a little trickier, as you will
need to find out which edge stitches to eliminate from the written
pattern, and strip it down to the pattern repeat only.
On looms, it can be easier to
follow a stitch pattern chart. In needle knitting, charts are read
from right to left on front side rows, and from right to left on wrong
side rows, while changing knits to purls and vice versa. Charts are
also read from bottom row to top, just like your knitting comes off the
needles and looms. Since most charts map the front side of the work,
with loom knitting, you just knit the stitch pattern as is, since you're always working on the front
side, there is no need to change the knits and purls on wrong size rows.
CIRCULAR KNITTING: Read stitch pattern
chart from right to left on every row. Sometimes the pattern repeats don't fit perfectly on the number of pegs around your loom, so use your best judgment, but always start each round on peg 1 at the beginning of the pattern repeat.
FLAT KNITTING: When knitting back
and forth in flat panels, sometimes you'll wrap towards the left, and alternate
rows towards the right. As you work each peg, read the chart exactly as you are
looking at the loom. If you start knitting the first peg on the right, start the
chart with the first stitch on the right. If you like to start knitting with the
first peg on the left, start the chart there also. With most simple
knit-purl patterns, you can follow the chart going left or right on any row, so
long as you knit in the same direction as you read the chart.
STITCH PATTERNS: This chart
represents 12 pegs across. Each color
band is a separate stitch pattern, and each block represents 1 peg, K=Knit, P=Purl. Some are single row repeats, others patterns repeat in multiple rows. Each
highlighted area is the pattern repeat across the
row/round.
If desired, add the stitches on the left
side of your knitting (show in gray) to make the left and right sides symmetrical in
your flat fabric patterns. You will repeat only the black stitches, then
add the gray stitches at the very end, on the left side only. To
figure out how many stitches to cast on, multiply the number of repeats, then
add the edge stitches. For example, the "single chevron" is a multiple of 8
pegs, plus 1, so if you repeat 8x3=24 pegs, you will need to add one more, making the total 25 pegs.
In flat fabrics, using the "skip-every-other-end-peg" style as shown
in the KK booklets creates a chain-like edge up the sides. This is
the equivalent of a "slipped-stitch edge" in needle knitting. These edge
stitches are extra stitches on the left and right sides of your work, which are separate from your pattern stitches,
so you will need to add 2 additional stitches to your total number. In the
"single chevron" example above, you'll add 2 more pegs, bringing the
total to 27.
*These reversible patterns look similar on the front and back, and
lay flat, unlike stockingnette which
curls. This is due to the physics of the stitches, so stitch
patterns with a relatively equal number of knits and purls across each row
tend to lay flatter.
| STITCH
NAME |
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| Stockingnette |
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K |
| Garter
Stitch* |
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K |
| |
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P |
| 1 x 1 Ribbing* |
|
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|
K |
P |
K |
| 1
x 2 Ribbing* |
|
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|
K |
K |
P |
K |
K |
| 2 x 2 Ribbing* |
|
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|
K |
K |
P |
P |
K |
K |
| Seed
Stitch* |
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|
K |
P |
| |
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P |
K |
| Rice
Stitch |
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K |
P |
| |
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K |
K |
| Moss
Stitch* |
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K |
P |
| |
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K |
P |
| |
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P |
K |
| |
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P |
K |
| Box
Stitch* |
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|
P |
P |
K |
K |
P |
P |
| |
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|
P |
P |
K |
K |
P |
P |
| |
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|
K |
K |
P |
P |
K |
K |
| |
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K |
K |
P |
P |
K |
K |
| Mistake
Ribbing* |
|
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|
K |
K |
K |
P |
K |
K |
K |
| |
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|
P |
K |
P |
P |
P |
K |
P |
| |
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|
K |
K |
K |
P |
K |
K |
K |
| |
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|
P |
K |
P |
P |
P |
K |
P |
| Little Checks* |
|
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|
K |
K |
K |
P |
P |
P |
K |
K |
K |
| |
|
|
K |
K |
K |
P |
P |
P |
K |
K |
K |
| |
|
|
K |
K |
K |
P |
P |
P |
K |
K |
K |
| |
|
|
K |
K |
K |
P |
P |
P |
K |
K |
K |
| |
|
|
P |
P |
P |
K |
K |
K |
P |
P |
P |
| |
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|
P |
P |
P |
K |
K |
K |
P |
P |
P |
| |
|
|
P |
P |
P |
K |
K |
K |
P |
P |
P |
| |
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|
P |
P |
P |
K |
K |
K |
P |
P |
P |
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